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MAKING TRAKS
September 10th, 1999 by Clark Humphrey

TO OUR OUT-OF-TOWN READERS: Who sez nothing really exciting ever happens in Seattle?

TO OUR LOCAL READERS: By all means, get thee on an Amtrak Cascades train as soon as feasible.

The train itself is fine enough. It’s a spectacular-on-the-outside, comfy-on-the-inside long passenger vehicle. The passenger cars are like a modern airline cabin, only with legroom. The dining and snack-bar cars allow for pleasant stranger-meeting during the consumption of only slightly-overpriced foodstuffs and microbrews.

(The snack-bar car also features a luscious Northwest satellite map on its ceiling, with cities and towns denoted by fiber-optic points-O-light.)

The service is impeccible, too. Particularly the customs and immigration routines on the Seattle-Vancouver route. In Vancouver, the legal rigamarows are handled at the train station upon disembarking (like it’s done on planes but not on buses). Heading south, the U.S. border cops do their interrogations on the moving train between Blaine and Bellingham, meaning no delays (except for those unfortunate travelers detained in B’ham for further investigation).

And there’s entertainment, sorta, in the form of on-train movies. Some of them are dull recent big-studio “comedies” like you’d see in-flight. But on the first half of my round trip, they showed It’s A Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World, considered something of a slapstick classic. (It also just so happens to be a movie in which bad things repeatedly happen to people in cars, trucks, and airplanes; i.e., not on trains.) Before and after the movie, the video monitors display regularly-updated status screens with the current time and temperature and a map of the route showing how far you’ve gone thus far.

But the real star of the two Amtrak Cascades routes (Seattle-Vancouver and Seattle-Portland-Eugene) is, natch, the scenery.

You don’t just see more of the scenic PacNW beauty, up close, than you can by plane or car.

You see a vision of what North America was like before the Interstates and the subdivisions.

What you will see on Amtrak:

  • The countryside: Beautiful. Long stretches of fields, shoreline, rivers, cliffs, hills (so close you can see the clearcuts), and mountains. Depending on the time of year, your sunset will occur as you traverse past the Skagit Valley, the Everett jetty, or the Willamette Valley at field-burning time.
    • Industry: Beautiful. Rusting warehouses, storage yards, gravel mounds, oil storage tanks, low-slung steel and wood buildings of all vintages, grain elevators, freight-car staging areas, Lego-like stacks of cargo containers, smokestacks, sawdust piles.

      <Tunnels: Beautiful, in the manner of the empty space full of possibilities.

    • Towns and cities: Beautiful. Old-time residential blocks. Stoic working-class hovels. Real waterfront cabins (not the Bainbridge millionaire palaces sometimes called “cabins”). The ultramod waterfront playspace that is White Rock, B.C.
    • Stretches parallelling old Highway 99: Beautiful, mostly. Old-time drive-in restaurants and dark, tiny roadside taverns. Farm-supply stores and tractor lots. Hand-painted billboards for backhoe services and storefront churches.
    • Stretches parallelling Interstate 5: Much less beautiful. Fortunately, not too many miles of the routes force you to look at the all-too-familiar realm of malls, strip malls, chain motels, and other small buildings surrounded by huge parking moats.

    Then there’s the train-travelin’ experience itself. It softly lulls you with the hypnotic click-clack, the size and comforts of the train car, the perfectly-maintained interior temperatures (getting hot only when late-afternoon sun bursts in thru the huge windows).

    It’s enough to make one forget that, in the Golden Age of Railroading (roughly 1865-1950), the RR biz in the U.S. epitomized some of the worst examples of corporate power–and, in the western states where railroads were given huge “land grants,” the government subsidies some folks nowadays call “corporate welfare.”

    Today, you’re not riding with the likes of the old Great Northern or Union Pacific (who could make or unmake whole communities by the service they chose to offer or the freight rates they charged to local shippers). You’re riding with friendly, scrappy li’l Amtrak, a publicly-supported enterprise that’s worked nearly three decades to make passenger rail service a viable alternative means of travel, and which is finally starting to succeed at this goal.

    MONDAY: Arriving in glorious Vancouver, where political regimes have lifespans akin to those of fruitflies.

    IN OTHER NEWS: Washington’s own role-playing game kings Wizards of the Coast are selling out to Hasbro, which over the past decade has grown from Mr. Potato Head and G.I. Joe to buying at least half of the toy-and-game biz’s best-known names, including, appropriately, Monopoly. Wizards’ owners will get $325 million, plus 100 Strength Points… and the saddest news of the day by far. Game over. (Found by EatonWeb)

    ELSEWHERE:

    • “I was out to dinner with my dad and boyfriend, but an ultra-fine waiter kept distracting me from our conversation. When my boyfriend went to the bathroom, and my dad got up to chat with a friend, I saw my chance to slip the hottie my digits….”
    • “The best performing trouser you’ll ever own….”
    • Buried at the end of a story about dumb newspaper feature sections on luxury goods, something even more disturbing: News of a thrift-store magazine run by and for millionaires….

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