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Making Traks
FIRST, APOLOGIES ARE DUE to those who found Thursday's column still on the site's main page Friday morning. Our server supplier has had a few more glitches.
TO OUR OUT-OF-TOWN READERS: Who sez nothing really exciting ever happens in Seattle?
TO OUR LOCAL READERS: By all means, get thee on an Amtrak Cascades train as soon as feasible.
The train itself is fine enough. It's a spectacular-on-the-outside, comfy-on-the-inside long passenger vehicle. The passenger cars are like a modern airline cabin, only with legroom. The dining and snack-bar cars allow for pleasant stranger-meeting during the consumption of only slightly-overpriced foodstuffs and microbrews.
(The snack-bar car also features a luscious Northwest satellite map on its ceiling, with cities and towns denoted by fiber-optic points-O-light.)
The service is impeccible, too. Particularly the customs and immigration routines on the Seattle-Vancouver route. In Vancouver, the legal rigamarows are handled at the train station upon disembarking (like it's done on planes but not on buses). Heading south, the U.S. border cops do their interrogations on the moving train between Blaine and Bellingham, meaning no delays (except for those unfortunate travelers detained in B'ham for further investigation).
And there's entertainment, sorta, in the form of on-train movies. Some of them are dull recent big-studio "comedies" like you'd see in-flight. But on the first half of my round trip, they showed It's A Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World, considered something of a slapstick classic. (It also just so happens to be a movie in which bad things repeatedly happen to people in cars, trucks, and airplanes; i.e., not on trains.) Before and after the movie, the video monitors display regularly-updated status screens with the current time and temperature and a map of the route showing how far you've gone thus far.
But the real star of the two Amtrak Cascades routes (Seattle-Vancouver and Seattle-Portland-Eugene) is, natch, the scenery.
You don't just see more of the scenic PacNW beauty, up close, than you can by plane or car.
You see a vision of what North America was like before the Interstates and the subdivisions.
What you will see on Amtrak:
Then there's the train-travelin' experience itself. It softly lulls you with the hypnotic click-clack, the size and comforts of the train car, the perfectly-maintained interior temperatures (getting hot only when late-afternoon sun bursts in thru the huge windows).
It's enough to make one forget that, in the Golden Age of Railroading (roughly 1865-1950), the RR biz in the U.S. epitomized some of the worst examples of corporate power--and, in the western states where railroads were given huge "land grants," the government subsidies some folks nowadays call "corporate welfare."
Today, you're not riding with the likes of the old Great Northern or Union Pacific (who could make or unmake whole communities by the service they chose to offer or the freight rates they charged to local shippers). You're riding with friendly, scrappy li'l Amtrak, a publicly-supported enterprise that's worked nearly three decades to make passenger rail service a viable alternative means of travel, and which is finally starting to succeed at this goal.
MONDAY: Arriving in glorious Vancouver, where political regimes have lifespans akin to those of fruitflies.
PITCH IN: This time, I'm looking for cultural artifacts today's young adults never knew (i.e., dial phones, non-inline skates, and three-network TV). Make your nominations at our MISC. Talk discussion boards.
IN OTHER NEWS: Washington's own role-playing game kings Wizards of the Coast are selling out to Hasbro, which over the past decade has grown from Mr. Potato Head and G.I. Joe to buying at least half of the toy-and-game biz's best-known names, including, appropriately, Monopoly. Wizards' owners will get $325 million, plus 100 Strength Points... and the saddest news of the day by far. Game over. (Found by EatonWeb)
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Joe Newton drew the caricature at the top of this page. Charlotte Quinn helped design the site.
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Copyright 2001 Clark Humphrey,
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